Editor’s Note: This is the second of a two-part series on the colorful history of Fort Brown, in Brownsville. The first part of this series was a brief account of the history of Fort Brown, as told by Carl Chilton, author of the new book: “Fort Brown: The First Border Post.”

Following author Carl Chilton’s presentation on the history of Fort Brown and a book signing, Jim Mills, professor of history at the University of Texas-Brownsville/South Texas College, led a walking tour of Fort Brown, which is today a part of the college campus.

Mills talked briefly about the earthen fort built in 1846 when General Zachary Taylor arrived on the north bank of the Rio Grande River across from Matamoros. Built in 1846, it was used until 1848 and became a supply base when the second Fort Brown was built.

The second fort had the reputation of being the “unhealthiest fort in the United States.” The water in the river was polluted from human and animal waste upstream and the food was often contaminated.

After the Civil War, life at Fort Brown was dull, monotonous and consuming alcohol became a favorite past time.

In 1906, a company of black “Buffalo Soldiers” was sent to Fort Brown. Residents, with a strong Southern heritage were opposed to the black soldiers being stationed in Brownsville, although the men were said to be of good character. Some Brownsville merchants refused to serve the black soldiers. Tensions came to a head in August of 1906 when 100 to 200 shots were fired over a period of 10 minutes in the downtown area of Elizabeth, Washington and 14th Streets. Shots hit the homes of Francisco Yturria, Louis Cowen and Fred Stark, all prominent citizens. A policeman was injured and a bartender was shot dead behind a saloon.

Major Penrose, who was the officer in charge of the black soldiers, called roll and found two of his men missing. When a weapon like those used by the Buffalo Soldiers was found, all soldiers denied knowing anything about the incident.

When no guilt could be established, by orders of President Theodore Roosevelt, all 167 black soldiers received a discharge without honor.

Mills emphasized there was no outstanding proof that any one of the men was involved, and the mystery of who did the actual shooting has never been solved.

According to Mills, the third fort was built by Quartermaster William Alonso Wainwright, beginning in 1868. It included a cavalry building, commissary, morgue, the post chapel, commandant’s quarters, bachelor’s N.C.O. quarters and the post hospital, which was the most impressive structure in the fort.

Mills led the tour through the campus, pointing out sites such as the new Language Arts Building that sits on what was once the parade ground for the fort and used by the cavalry for training.

He led the tour to the commandant’s home, a frame home, which is located in the middle of the campus. It is the only building left from the second fort. It has been preserved because General “Black Jack" Pershing, Charles Lindberg, Abner Doubleday (founder of baseball), Col. Robert E. Lee and others are said to have stayed there at one time or another. Several of the university’s presidents used it as a home, but today it is used for administrative offices.

One of the most famous residents was John Clem, who entered the army at age 10, as a drummer boy during the Civil War. He made sergeant by the age of 12. Later, he became an officer, and in 1909 as a major general, he was commandant of Fort Brown. He had the distinction of being the last Civil War veteran to be on duty.

General Clem is also credited with the decision to consolidate military cemeteries. Prior to his decision, each post had its own cemetery, but this proved too expensive. In 1911, graves of 2,800 soldiers from Fort Brown were moved to a cemetery in Pinedale, Louisiana. Many of the soldiers died from yellow fever or cholera. Today, the site is used for student housing. Mills stated he enjoys reminding students living in the dorms they are living on top of a former graveyard.

Mills led the tour to the resaca, where the officers’ housing was located. Beyond the lake is the location of the first Fort Brown and, later, a resort area for the City of Brownsville. Today, it is part of the college campus.

The professor recounted a story of Robert E. Lee, who came to preside over the court martial of Giles Porter in 1857. He was enchanted with the flora and fauna of the area, and walked several miles, without realizing, studying the area along the river. Suddenly, a cold norther blew in and Lee had to walk back as the temperature dropped rapidly into the 40s. Lee said he got in bed and shivered all night. He could not ever remember being so cold, even in his home state of Virginia.

Lee returned in 1860 when Juan Cortina, known as the Mexican Robin Hood, began a series of border raids referred to as the Cortina Wars.

Mills led the tour to a brick building under renovation. He said it was the commissary of the third Fort Brown. The bottom floor was used as the jail or brig for the fort.

Mills recounted the story of a soldier named Shorty who spent so much time in the brig it took him seven years to finish his three year term in the military because time in the brig does not count as service time. Besides being used as a commissary and brig, the building has been a chemistry lab, a weight room, a radio and television station and an art gallery. It is now used by administration.

Mills said all buildings are made of yellow bricks made locally from clay along the river.

The next building was once the non-commissioned officers bachelors’ quarters. When the base of the building was dug up during renovation, hundreds of hidden alcohol bottles were found. A telephone exchange, complete with switchboard, was also located in the building.

The post chapel is today called the Regiment House. It was dismantled from a location near the levee and reconstructed in the middle of the campus. While it served as a chapel, it was a popular wedding site for Brownsville residents. It once served as the fort’s library and many of the black soldiers stationed at Fort Brown after the Civil War learned to read and write from a teacher, Willie Stigger, a navy veteran.

Mills pointed out a small yellow brick building, which he said was the morgue. Because of the epidemics of yellow fever and cholera, many people died. William Crawford Gorgas was stationed at Fort Brown in 1882 during a yellow fever outbreak. He fell in love with a young lady named Marie Doughty. When she became ill, he went to the hospital against orders and cared for her. He also contacted yellow fever, and fortunately, both survived. Because he was now immune to the disease he conducted post mortems on victims of the fever. He was later instrumental in the eradication of Yellow Fever in Cuba and Panama. In 1914, he became surgeon general of the Army. King George VI knighted him in 1920, shortly before his death.

The old hospital, the most impressive of the third fort buildings left on campus, is today known as Gorgas Hall, in honor of Dr. Gorgas. The building is said to have over one million bricks, which cost $2 to $8 per thousand during the construction period. With its thick brick walls, floor to ceiling windows and covered verandas, the building was considered to be the most beautiful post hospital building in the U.S. Army. Mills said that because of the thickness of the walls and the Gulf breezes, even in summer the building did not get too hot.

After use as a hospital, it became a medical lab, a sterilization and X-ray center, and a surgical building.

In 1889, when an ice machine was sent to the hospital, someone discovered that distilled water could be obtained through a coil connected to the machine. Drinking distilled water improved the health of everyone on the post almost overnight.

Although many of the old buildings are gone, the buildings from Fort Brown that remain are a treasured reminder of the colorful history of Brownsville.

Another tour of Ft. Brown will be offered Jan. 16 when the Brownsville Heritage Complex will present, “Shades of Winter History Tour: Fort Brown,” with UTB Professor Jim Mills at 2 p.m. Admission is $10. For information call (956) 541-5560. The tour will meet at 1325 E. Washington Street, Brownsville.